Sporades, GREECE
The Jewels of the Aegean Sea
Just off the eastern coast of mainland Greece lies the Sporades Islands, a stunning archipelago scattered across the sparkling Aegean Sea. Made up of 24 islands—only four of which are inhabited—the Sporades are a perfect blend of unspoiled natural beauty, crystal-clear waters, and lush green landscapes. Far less crowded than Santorini or Mykonos, these islands offer a more relaxed, authentic Greek island experience.
At the heart of the Sporades are Skiathos and Skopelos. Skiathos is known for its golden beaches like Koukounaries, vibrant harbor, and lively yet laid-back atmosphere. Just a ferry ride away, Skopelos enchants with its pine-covered hills, dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and the iconic white chapel from Mamma Mia!, perched above the sapphire sea.
Dare I say I had the time of my life here? Yes, Mamma Mia filming locations were what initially inspired a visit but we loved the irresistible mix of adventure, tranquility, and timeless Greek charm.
Deciding How Long to Stay
We spent a total of 10 days within Skiathos and Skopelos and recommend at least 3 non-travel days in both. Getting between the islands is a half day event. Maggie and I initially flew from Athens to Skiathos and stayed there for 3 nights before going to Skopelos for 6 nights and then returning to Skiathos for one more night before we flew out. We aimed to buffer our schedule in case we had late or canceled ferries that could cause us to miss flights. Even though I immensely enjoyed Skiathos, Skopelos was my favourite island and it’s worth allocating more time to seeing it properly. Not only is it bigger than Skiathos but it also has a more wild quality to it that is mesmerizing.
Where to Stay
There are so many breathtaking hotels, villas and Airbnbs all over both islands. Make sure you’re on the correct island when you’re booking as some of the map-based searches like Airbnb will show locations from both. We recommend getting a spot with a pool and air conditioning! Where you stay on both islands depends on if you rent a car. You don’t need to have a car for Skiathos so staying anywhere near the town should be good. Skopelos I recommend staying somewhere more on the western side since that’s where we spent most of our time- although the homes within the main town are charming and have more restaurants accessible.
Skopelos
L to R: Secret beach off the trail from Ftelia beach, Obraz Church in Hora, Sailing back to Skopelos from Alonissos, Pavlos taverna, The three trees at Cape Amarandos,
What to Do
The sparkliest water calls!
Swim Spots
B.Y.O.G. - Bring Your Own Goggles. This water is clear but SALTY!
Kastani Beach
There’s no question, you simply must go to Kastani. This cove of perfect water meets a beautiful cascade of pine and rock. There’s a beach bar operation renting the typical day beds and umbrellas. We opted to walk towards the northern end of the shore to recreate the “Lay All Your Love on Me” Scene from the movie. Even if this wasn’t a movie location this beach would’ve been a highlight. We came in the afternoon, explored the water caves along the rocky coast and stayed through the most spectacular sunset. Kayaks and paddleboards are available to hire on the beach.
Cape Amarandos
You cannot miss this spot either. This is what initially made me foam at the mouth to come to Skopelos. A beautiful cape with so many features- the classic rocks that jet out with some pine trees. A perfect spot for a picnic, or a Hollywood movie. You’ll recognise this location in the movie where Sophie is out on the boat with her possible dads. It’s not just that one cove, there are other coves along the cape worth checking out and you can walk from one end to the other within minutes. We snorkeled along a few little inlets. One dramatic inlet is rather narrow and long with high cliffs on either side- you can see right from where you park the car. The cape is accessible to cars via dirt road.
Ftelia Beach
Ftelia is another beautiful and established beach with amenities and a bar situation. What some don’t realise is between Ftelia and other larger beaches is a small deer trail leading to some secret beaches like Megalo Pefko. You can swim to these spots pretty easily (within 10 minutes) or walk (almost faint) trail through the pine forest once you get park at Ftelia. There are a series of mini coves that you can climb down to- not a great spot if you have young children or are unbalanced. They were perfect for us as we had our own little perfect beach with some shade to boot!
Church of Agios Ioannis Kastri.
I can’t believe this church famously featured in Mamma Mia is real! It’s a rewarding climb up to the chapel and the views of the coast. Many “Mamma Mia” tours both by bus or boat offer a visit here or you can get t there by car. If you’re driving there make sure you take the road via Glossas - Google led us down an unmarked rocky road and had to turn back. It’s free to visit although it can get crowded during the day. Come in the morning or before sunset for the best light!
Archipélagos (Αρχιπέλαγος)
Our favourite shop/ gallery on the island. It had a great mix of adorable and more expensive art and jewelry. Everything was authentic and tasteful. I loved seeing all the painting folk scenes on the small pieces of wood.
Boat Tours & Rentals
Kardous Sailing
Perfect day sailing around Skopelos and Alonissos! Alexandra and her brother Antonis were such great hosts on their lovely boat. We thoughtfully enjoyed all the swimming stops they chose. Picturesque landscapes and the clearest water ever. The lunch they made was very tasty. Maggie said it was the best Greek salad she’s had this entire trip. They had stand-up paddle boards, snorkeling gear, and lots of fun facts and recommendations for around the island afterwards.
£127 per person for full day
Axis Skopelos Boat Rental
Steer your own boat- no boating license required. Good for all the little coves and inlets around the island. They offer
Kayaking Skopelos
While many beaches offer kayaks for hire, here’s a guided kayaking tour that can take you safely to locations only accessible by water.
The three trees at Cape Amarandos, the beach beds at Paralia Agnonatas, One of the many sea caves around Amarandos cove, Paddle boarding at nearby island Alonissos, Home in Hora, Secret beach between Kastani and Ftelia beaches, Alonissos from the Kardous sailing boat, Our favorite gallery in Skopelos- Archipélagos, The inlet in Amarandos, Local art from Archipélagos
Where We Ate
Pavlos
I can’t exactly speak to the food as a vegan- although my salad and basket of fries were yummy. But what I can speak to is how idyllic and relaxing the location is. The beach is right next to it, one half of the cove has sunbeds and the other half has tables that go right up to the water. We saw some guests with their feet in the water, wading their babies while they waited for food. I could’ve spent hours here. We ended up coming back on our last night on the island. Right next door is the more upscale, Korali seafood if that’s your vibe.
Anatolia
At the tippy top of Hora, or Skopelos town, lies a multi-terraced mega taverna that at night turns into a lively cultural hub. In between taking orders and arranging tables, you’ll find the workers singing and playing traditional Greek songs at the front door of the tiny kitchen. I will say this isn’t the place if you’re hoping to get your food and get out as service could be considered “slow” to many non-Greeks. People go there to stay there for hours so be sure to go early for a good spot and an excellent sunset view.
Anna’s Restaurant
What it must be like to eat in Hotel Bella Donna’s courtyard. Our host highly recommended Anna’s and it didn’t disappoint. Classic Greek Food in a beautiful setting. Great spot if you feel like a splurge is in order. Reservations are recommended.
Soya Skopelos
A crazy fun blend of Mexican and Asian flavours. This was Maggie’s favourite spot to grab a quick bite of lunch in Hora. It’s positioned within the heart of old town with tables and benches in and outside all lined with pillows. A solid chill vibe and a nice switch-up in case you’re feeling something other than Greek food.
L to R: The singing staff at Anatolia, My (vegan) greek salad, Pavlos restaurant, Cats at Pavlos trying to charm you into sharing your food, Lemonade from Juices & Books
Transportation
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The only way to get to Skopelos is by water. Many people come here via the large ferries that service both Skiathos and Alonissos.
Book here: https://ferries.greeka.com/
Allocate a half day to get from Skiathos to Skopelos. The trip itself usually takes and hour and 15 minutes but getting on the ferry requires getting to the port over an hour in advance (especially if you have a car)
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There are a few car rental spots in the port. I recommened booking in advance but I know some folks have just strolled up and picked ATVs up easily. I recommend having a car for this island especially if you’re staying outside of the main town. Some of the roads are unpaved and a little rocky, like the road out to Amarandos cove.
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There are a solid amount of busses that service the island and all the beaches. I can’t say they drop you off right at the beach- often you have to hike down and haul your gear.
There are Mamma Mia tours you can find in town that’ll drive you around to all the locations if you choose to forego a car. We met a girl that said it was a fun day!
Skiathos
L to R: Skiathos Old Port, Daybeds at Tsgourias, Lalaria Beach, The view of Plakes from Plakes beach, Skiathos Old port at sunset. Plakes at sunset.
What to Do
Swim, Lounge, Eat, Repeat
Beaches
Plakes Beach
Plakes Beach lies at the southern edge of Skiathos Town, near the old harbor. Surrounded by towering rocks and pines, it offers a peaceful, d vibe. Accessed by a set of stairs, the beach has no facilities, keeping its natural charm intact. Its close proximity to Skiathos Town means you’re just a short walk from restaurants, cafes, and shops.
Kastro Beach
In the remote north of Skiathos, Kastro was the island’s largest medieval town with both a 14th-century clifftop fortress and a beautiful secluded beach. You can get to the beach either via car and a short hike down or by boat. Stunning views of cliffs and craggly coves. It’s so remote not many people venture out there. You’ll be surprised to find there’s even a beach taverna.
Lalaria
This secluded beach is renowned for its striking limestone cliffs, rugged pebble shoreline, and impressive natural rock arch. Accessible only by boat during calm seas, it offers a serene escape, free from crowds and modern amenities
Boat Tours
Katerina Traditional Sailing
“Discover the beauty of Skiathos and its surrounding islands on board a traditional wooden sailboat. Savour a freshly-cooked meal and stop to swim and snorkel in crystal-clear water along the way.” Captain Katerina’s tour is worth the price for the diverse and more secluded stops. Know before you go: A "Passengers List" must be provided to the port authorities, so it necessary to provide your name, date of birth, passport number and phone number when booking. If the minimum number of participants is not met, (6) the trip is rescheduled for another day or refunded
£112.44 per person for full day
Tsougrias Boats
Bigger and more crowded boat trip with long stops at Lalaria, Tsougrias, and Kastro beaches. Maggie and I opted to skip the optional short stop at Kastro to stay at Lalaria longer. Lalaria was gorgeous but a bit crowded and shade was hard to come by. Tsougrias was pleasant. I’d recommend renting a sunbed for the time you’re there. This is a long day out in the sun. Bring snacks, sunblock, and plenty of water.
€25-35 per person for 5 hours
Explore Old Town
Strolling around Plakes and the maze that is old town was plenty of fun if, like us, you need some time away from the rays. Just like any destination, there’s going to be crappy souvenir shops but we also found some authentic handmade goods and friendly crafters, too! Visiting the numerous Mamma Mia locations (such as the old port and the clock tower) around the town was also a treat. Message me if you want to see ANY of Maggie recreating basically the entire movie here.
Mamma Mia Outdoor Cinema
Here we go again, Annie.
Gimme gimme gimme a break.
If you’re in the mood to sing alongside Meryl and the gang and want to watch the island shimmering on the big screen- this is the perfect evening for you. They’ve got dancers doing the choreo in front of the screen adding to the splendour and silliness. BOOK YOUR TICKETS IN ADVANCE via Facebook Messenger or in person at the box office (Like as soon as you get to Skiathos)
L to R: Katerina Traditonal Sailing anchored for lunch, Lalaria Beach, the water from Tsougaria Boat, Tsougaria Beach, Kastro ruins, The view of town from Plakes beach, Katerina’s boat docked for lunch, Maggie at Lalaria beach, A view of the archipelago from the drive to Kastro
Where We Ate
Bourtzi Skiathos
To the right of the old port is the historic fortress of Bourtzi. At the tip of the peninsula and under a canopy of pine trees lies this gorgeous restaurant and bar with views of the water on three sides. Great cocktails. Be sure to reserve in advance. Be sure to check out the charming craggly staircase leading from the bar seating down to a little dock.
Marmita
Marmita feels like a secret garden, with outdoor tables nestled under trees, surrounded by vines, and fairy light-wrapped beams. The cozy, romantic atmosphere pairs perfectly with a menu that reimagines Greek classics using fresh, seasonal ingredients. Our favourite meal in Skiathos. Great service, amazing food. We couldn’t get over the bread basket. Reserve in advance.
Salkimi
Of course I recommend spots for the views. This taverna is more hidden away form the main streets but still within walking distance of everything. We could get enough of the view. The food was good too but we mostly went for snacks and drinks if I’m being completely honest.
Mesogia Taverna
The oldest taverna in Skiathos Town, has been serving up charm for over 100 years in the picturesque Plakes district. Picture this: narrow streets, checkered tablecloths, and pops of colorful flowers—it’s Greek taverna perfection. Family-run and proud, they stick to the classics, with a few vegetarian-friendly bites. The vibe is effortlessly authentic, and the prices are affordable. No reservations.
The Windmill
Okay, We didn’t actually go here but I REGRET IT! The views alone make me want to cry. Book in advance.
L to R: Bourtzi bar, Mesogia Taverna, Vegan Moussaka from Marmita, Maggie at Marmita, The bread box at Marmita, the view from Salkimi
Transportation
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Ferries
Getting to Skiathos by ferry is easy, with both high-speed and car ferries available. From Athens, you’ll need to take a KTEL bus to Volos (about 3.5 hours) before catching a ferry to Skiathos (1.5–2.5 hours). Ferries run frequently to nearby islands like Skopelos, Alonissos, and Mantoudi on Evia, with occasional routes to Thessaloniki. You can bring your car on the ferries. Reserve in advance.
Plane
Skiathos is served by Alexandros Papadiamantis Airport, just 4km from Skiathos Town. You can catch year-round flights from Athens and seasonal routes from across Europe, including the UK. Getting to town is easy with regular buses or a quick ride.
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Busses & Cabs
While renting a car or scooter is great for exploring remote spots, Skiathos has a reliable bus system. The main route runs along the south coast from Skiathos Town to Koukounaries Beach with 27 stops and buses every 15 minutes. There are also routes to Evangelistria Monastery, Xamenos Beach, Aselinos Beach, and the airport, plus a taxi rank at the New Port. Shuttle boats connect the south coast beaches with Skiathos Town.
Cars
Book rental cars in advance especially if you drive automatic transmissions and because the rates go up quite a bit if you book it day of or close to it. There are a few rental agencies at the airport.
A car might be a good idea if your lodging is not near the old town. The old town doesn’t allow access to cars and there are a few parking lots on the edges of town. Be prepared to park and walk 10-15 mins to any destination if you’re not staying in the old town.
If you’re going to both Skiathos and Skopelos, but especially for Skopelos, I’d recommend having a car as it gives you the freedom to explore more of the hidden or lesser-known beaches.
Driving around Skiathos for the most part was easy! There are some destinations, especially high up in the hills that were a little scary to get to- think rocky roads or STEEP climbs. Make sure the car you’re renting can handle that terrain if you want to visit those more remote locations. ATV/scooter rentals might be good alternative
Money Tips
Exchange Money Before Your Trip
Convert your currency to euro before leaving for Greece. The exchange rates there are poor, and ATMs often charge a hefty withdrawal fee of 9–11%, meaning you could lose around $20 for every $100 withdrawn.
Carry Some Cash
While credit cards are widely accepted, it’s handy to have cash for small purchases like coffee or water.
Tipping
Tipping isn’t based on a percentage of your bill. Leaving €2–5 is customary, depending on the bill and service quality. Cash or coins are preferred, though you can ask your server to add a tip to your card payment—it won’t appear as an option on card readers unless you request it.
Pay in Euros
Always choose to pay in euros if given the option. Some shops may ask if you’d like to pay in dollars, but this usually results in unfavorable conversion rates.
